I have been thinking about making a post about the anticipated ERKI fashion show a few days now, but I was worried.
"What exactly?" you ask
Well, the notes I made during the show were pretty critical.
Ok, maybe even too critical if we think about the still-learning students that participated.
The worst thing you could do is criticise their work when they are still searching themselves as a designer.
It would be like clipping their wings when they are still developing them in the first place.
Or like criticising a future mother about how ignorant of a mother she is on her baby shower.
Ok, you got it.
But still, here you are reading the beginning of the post I didn't want to write.
So, does it mean I am brave enough to make public the oh-so-critical comments?
There is a thin line between bravery and stupidity.
I would like to assure you the following is my sincere oppinion and my oppinion only.
Did that sound like the beginning of a drug commercial?
I am not trying to take someone down with my oppinion. It's quite predictable to say "I would like to see your designs!", "Do better then!", etc. So please, spare me.
This was the end of small talking.
So, ERKI fashion show 2011. What happened?
This years moto: The podium is like a white empty canvas that is going to be filled with the freshest fashion.
Each year the organisers think of new ways how to make it a one of a kind and innovative experience . Last year the theme was "Silent show" where all the participants (audience and models) had to wear headphones because the show was held in an underground parking lot (how creative?!). This year they made it into a live show so everyone that didn't have the chance to be there physically could still take part of it thanks to the miracle of television (well, not much of a miracle in the 21. century).
On the Estonia's longest podium, 30 metres to be precise, 25 collections were shown. 22 of them from Estonian, the other 3 from French, Slovakian and Finnish young aspiring designers.
The collections, in my oppinion, could be devided into 4 groups. The first are the ones that really stood up, then there were the ones that had one or two true pearls. The third group consited of mishmash pieces, far from cohesive collections by a group of students (That's ERKI). There were a lot of not-quite-there collections that weren't memorable someway, just neutral. I chose not to write about the two last groups, trust me it would have been very dull for me to write and for you to read. If you are reading this part of course, the intro is too long I know.
The collections, in my oppinion, could be devided into 4 groups. The first are the ones that really stood up, then there were the ones that had one or two true pearls. The third group consited of mishmash pieces, far from cohesive collections by a group of students (That's ERKI). There were a lot of not-quite-there collections that weren't memorable someway, just neutral. I chose not to write about the two last groups, trust me it would have been very dull for me to write and for you to read. If you are reading this part of course, the intro is too long I know.
Let's begin, shall we.
"Moravian Costume"
by a Slovakian designer L. Komosny
The goal was to reflect Moravian history in a modern way.
The colour palette consisted of gray and vivid green.
I loved how the different shapes were playing and balancing each other.
You could really feel the professionalism of the designer.
Erverything was wery well sewn, especially the pants. It's hard to make high-waisted pants look good and clean.
The designer tought about making the collection seem interesting onstage and also practical offstage.
What really caught my eye was the balanced choise of models: they seemed to really embody the Moravian woman.
"Uneline"
by I.Ait and K. Ostrat (Euroakadeemia Fashion 1. year)
The collection was inspired by the clutter of cities in dreams that resulted in eclectic prints.
I must say, the prints were the best part.
Sure, there were elements that weren't cohesive with the other pieces , but did that ruin the overall impression? Not at all.
"11"
by L. Suurväli (EKA Fashion 3.year)
A mix of geometric forms, sumo wrestling, space, bright colours and latex made up one of the most memorable and quirky collections of the night.
Don't know about how flattering the clothes are in real life of couse?
"Meie aja kangelane"
by K.Koovit (EKA Fashion 3.year)
I was so glad to see a collection dedicated to men only. The most underestimated part of fashion is men's fashion. And we need more talented designers to fix that.
Designer found inspiration in nuthouses, emotionality and mythical people, who are bigger than life itself.
Fantastic tailoring, interesting new cuts and shapes.
The collection really told a story for me.There are a lot of people mildly crazy only in the inside, outside everything seems fine. And so the crazyness keeps on growing because medical attention hasn't been given. I imagined a nowadays artist, poet maybe, following the footsteps of his father, who is the owner and founder of a woldwide company. He wants to devote his life to poetry, but his father doesn't approve of it ("Who ever said poet is a real occupation?"). He always dreamt of having a son, who shared his enthusiasm towards business, and so he gives his son a very presigious postition in his firm, hopefully to bing him over to the business side so he'll forget the arts. The son agrees, continuing to write poetry and secretly performing them in an underground poetry club, hoping that one day his father will understand his passion. Not knowing how to explain it to his father he agrees to his job offer. Every single day in that office drives him a teaspoon closer to a mental breakdown.
This is my favourite collection of the night. I love the almost shifted cuts and even I would wear them. Honestly.That's a true proof of how much I love the collection.
"Nude directions"
by Kallas and Jazepova (EKA Leather 3.year)
Truly world-class shoedesign.
I loved the wedges and the colour palette.
I want to see them closer, feel them, smell them, love them and wear them even if they seemed to be a little uncomfortable and a challenge to wear.
"A Mystery Cup"
by A.Babitsky
Well that collection made a lot of people scrach their head.
"Vulgar circus" was my first thought.
Probably the most scandalouse collection of the night. That said, it reminded me a little about the last years wtf? collection.
Babitsky himself said that the collection's name comes from totally unpredictable, mystical and unique persons from saloons' teanights.
"The whole collection debated over who we really are in the society and how much of that is deceptive. How much do we have to show ourselves and where the line is drawn? What makes us human? How conservative we are?" said the designer, "For me the mystery is in the large amount of different characters. People are interesting to watch, analyse, understand and find their needs."
His leather collection was made in 9 months.
Well, his hats are amazing, I must say.
I don't know. I'm speechless. Boy, you've left me speechless.
That was probably your goal.
"Marsime sinu unne"
by EKA Leather 2.year
The designer brought a variety of leather boots and accessories.
I really enjoyed their own unique view on the classical Dr. Martens. Especially the ones with the multiple layers.
The few seconds of presentation were made interesting by two pairs of helpful hands that added or tweaked a detail or two on the models on stage. Reminded me of my favourite fashion duo Victor & Rolf and their fall and winter 2010/2011 collection. Of course theirs is much interesting. I added a video so you can all agree with me.
Note to self: Have to make a post about these guys someday!
"Satellite Orchids"
by O.Jazepova EKA Leather 3.year
Olga said about her collection: "Complicated connection of feelings, a combination of evenst, rare sense of reality, lightness, freedom and transparency."
The pastel tones, pleating and flowy fabrics, the thin staps of leather and suprising minimalistic geometric shapes made the overall collection very feminine yet firm. I loved the contrasts. I always love contrast, everywhere.
"Loomine"
by M. Vaakman
"Moravian Costume"
by a Slovakian designer L. Komosny
The goal was to reflect Moravian history in a modern way.
The colour palette consisted of gray and vivid green.
I loved how the different shapes were playing and balancing each other.
You could really feel the professionalism of the designer.
Erverything was wery well sewn, especially the pants. It's hard to make high-waisted pants look good and clean.
The designer tought about making the collection seem interesting onstage and also practical offstage.
What really caught my eye was the balanced choise of models: they seemed to really embody the Moravian woman.
by I.Ait and K. Ostrat (Euroakadeemia Fashion 1. year)
The collection was inspired by the clutter of cities in dreams that resulted in eclectic prints.
I must say, the prints were the best part.
Sure, there were elements that weren't cohesive with the other pieces , but did that ruin the overall impression? Not at all.
by L. Suurväli (EKA Fashion 3.year)
A mix of geometric forms, sumo wrestling, space, bright colours and latex made up one of the most memorable and quirky collections of the night.
Don't know about how flattering the clothes are in real life of couse?
"Meie aja kangelane"
by K.Koovit (EKA Fashion 3.year)
I was so glad to see a collection dedicated to men only. The most underestimated part of fashion is men's fashion. And we need more talented designers to fix that.
Designer found inspiration in nuthouses, emotionality and mythical people, who are bigger than life itself.
Fantastic tailoring, interesting new cuts and shapes.
The collection really told a story for me.There are a lot of people mildly crazy only in the inside, outside everything seems fine. And so the crazyness keeps on growing because medical attention hasn't been given. I imagined a nowadays artist, poet maybe, following the footsteps of his father, who is the owner and founder of a woldwide company. He wants to devote his life to poetry, but his father doesn't approve of it ("Who ever said poet is a real occupation?"). He always dreamt of having a son, who shared his enthusiasm towards business, and so he gives his son a very presigious postition in his firm, hopefully to bing him over to the business side so he'll forget the arts. The son agrees, continuing to write poetry and secretly performing them in an underground poetry club, hoping that one day his father will understand his passion. Not knowing how to explain it to his father he agrees to his job offer. Every single day in that office drives him a teaspoon closer to a mental breakdown.
This is my favourite collection of the night. I love the almost shifted cuts and even I would wear them. Honestly.That's a true proof of how much I love the collection.
I love the next guy in every fashion show. He always brings a theatrical energy to the stage. It's always a pleasure to see him. Although this time he was the most restrained I have ever seen him. Perfect fit for the "crazy but not really there" idea.
by Kallas and Jazepova (EKA Leather 3.year)
Truly world-class shoedesign.
I loved the wedges and the colour palette.
I want to see them closer, feel them, smell them, love them and wear them even if they seemed to be a little uncomfortable and a challenge to wear.
"Vaktsiin"
by EKA fashion 3.year
I love the idea of turning toward yourself for inspiration. A person is his own source of inspiration.
The prints were amazing.
Not recommended for nervous people?
"A Mystery Cup"
by A.Babitsky
Well that collection made a lot of people scrach their head.
"Vulgar circus" was my first thought.
Probably the most scandalouse collection of the night. That said, it reminded me a little about the last years wtf? collection.
Babitsky himself said that the collection's name comes from totally unpredictable, mystical and unique persons from saloons' teanights.
"The whole collection debated over who we really are in the society and how much of that is deceptive. How much do we have to show ourselves and where the line is drawn? What makes us human? How conservative we are?" said the designer, "For me the mystery is in the large amount of different characters. People are interesting to watch, analyse, understand and find their needs."
His leather collection was made in 9 months.
Well, his hats are amazing, I must say.
I don't know. I'm speechless. Boy, you've left me speechless.
That was probably your goal.
"Marsime sinu unne"
by EKA Leather 2.year
The designer brought a variety of leather boots and accessories.
I really enjoyed their own unique view on the classical Dr. Martens. Especially the ones with the multiple layers.
The few seconds of presentation were made interesting by two pairs of helpful hands that added or tweaked a detail or two on the models on stage. Reminded me of my favourite fashion duo Victor & Rolf and their fall and winter 2010/2011 collection. Of course theirs is much interesting. I added a video so you can all agree with me.
Victor & Rolf:
Note to self: Have to make a post about these guys someday!
"Satellite Orchids"
by O.Jazepova EKA Leather 3.year
Olga said about her collection: "Complicated connection of feelings, a combination of evenst, rare sense of reality, lightness, freedom and transparency."
The pastel tones, pleating and flowy fabrics, the thin staps of leather and suprising minimalistic geometric shapes made the overall collection very feminine yet firm. I loved the contrasts. I always love contrast, everywhere.
"Okasroosike"
by M.Sild (freelance photographer and fashion designer)
Thorn-romanticism and rococo.
I loved the flowery tights and stockings.
Sorry, this picture is purely due to this guy's amazing facial features.
He reminds me of The Doors singer. Jim Morrison anybody else? Anybody?
Ok, here is the second group with some outstanding pieces that I could not not add to this post."Loomine"
by M. Vaakman
EKAs 3rd year fashion student Maria's collection had an etno feel to it with a lot of lightness and freshness.
I must say the jacket with the gathered collar is amazing. It was interesting to see the victorian and ethno influences together.
I must say the jacket with the gathered collar is amazing. It was interesting to see the victorian and ethno influences together.
"All that money"
by M.Luik (EKA Phography 3.year), K. Milistver (EKA Leather 2.year), N.Aunap (EKA Animation alumna)
The collection unites money and art. It's about their dialogue.
I love the girls' capeish jacket's cutting, the idea of multibelting and the belt bags (a fun new interpretation of a comfortable fanny pack)
"I love you...me neither"
by O.Rattik EKA Fashion 3.year
Yes, I am aware that safety pins are old news.
Somehow this gown's torso is really beautiful from long distance.
And you may noticed this jacket on Artjom in the final of "Eesti otsib superstaari"
To end somehow the picture and the text porn, sorry about that, the overall impression was not at all bad. Was I dissapointed and do I regret spending my valuable time for these young designers instead of studying for my exam? Noup.
Although, I have to say, ERKI fashion how is the oldest in Estonia, but it still has some organizing misunderstandings. For example, is it so difficult to show the designers after each show so that the clutter of the finale with the designers and models wouldn't be there? Or at least send them to the runway with equal gaps so that we could actually see them?
I leave these questions to find their answers next year.
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