Friday, February 10, 2012

Why we wear what we wear? Part I

Art completes what nature leaves unfinished.
One way to interpret this thought is by seeing a human being behind nature's unfinished creation. We are all born into this world as prototypes: similar to each-other and semi-finished. Art around us will start to model us according to how we response to changes. Fashion, overall fashion without any specifications about what can be perceived as art in fashion and what not, is a form of art.
Tom Ford once said: "That's the whole point of dressing up, you feel better about yourself. It's an enchanted version of who you are".
We all do it! We hide our flaws. We hide our insecurities. We bring out the sides we like most about ourselves. We manipulate, with ourselves or with others.

You wear. You feel. You are.

You are. You feel. You wear.

I have always found it extremely fascinating how one chooses between countless numbers of items and combines them. Dressing up is really a form of art, coming back to the "art" part.
Communicating with the world without words, offering aesthetic pleasure, making the world think, inspiring.
Our choices reflect out thoughts, our mood, our dreams, our hope, our plans. They reflect us.
I think, actually I'm positive you have also tried to figure out who is the newcomer on the first encounter or the stranger passing us by in the street. What is their story?
All the previous fancy cliche sentences belong under the wings of one giant question: "Why we wear what we wear?"
Seriously, why do you wear what you wear? Do you know? Can you explain it in words?
Yes, one way to expound this question is to think about the personal motives behind our wardrobe. The second one is to think about the universal motives. That includes: why we are given these specific opportunities in the stores? why designers create these specific opportunities for us? who/what inspired them to create? why we wear certain clothes to certain situations?, etc.
I am beginning the hunt to find out the answers to these questions and many more. And since this is like an introduction to the whole series of post I thought I would start by answering the personal question about myself and because I had to do this presentation at university already I figured I'd follow the shortest road.
In advance, I wouldn't say that I have the most interesting wardrobe of unique pieces. And also a big wardrobe. I'm quite the simple gal with a simple closet. You know, keep it simple. And so I didn't really photograph anything. Only the similar colors together to defend myself by stating previously how "simple" it is.

Let's see what the statistics say, shall we?
I like me some black. Color that is.
It's like that, you open my closet and see nothing but black at a first glance. And when the eye has become used to the darkness a couple of colorful things start to pop out.
I know that too much of black in one outfit is too much for my type (a summer with winter influences, at least that was what the teacher told me, I would never have considered myself as a summer type), but I feel comfortable in it.
I love how Ann Demeulemeester, who herself uses a lot of black while designing, said: "Black is not sad. Bright colors are what depresses me. They're so empty. Black is poetic. How do you imagine a poet? In a bright yellow jacket? Probably not..."
I don't share the extreme opinion concerning bright colors, I don't mind them, but I totally agree with her about black. There is something special about it. If you think about why we see black material as black, then physics explain that black swallows all the colorful lights and doesn't reflect anything to the eye back. Hence, there is a lot of energy and light in black. I feel it extremely well when wearing only black. There is something undescribable about wearing it head to toe. But it can be compared to that moment in, for example, movies when the superhero puts on his costume for the first time and this large quantity of energy runs through his veins like lightning.  Have you felt it?
Then there are black and white items and white items. Overall, black and white forms over 60% of my closet. I can't help that my eyes first notice black and white in stores. I don't do it intentionally. Just the other day I was looking through the clothes in Humana (happy hour, ding-ding-ding, 1,50 euro). Second-hand shops and flee markets are the only places where I don't look for b&W (unconsciously that is). The more interesting color or print the more attention it will get from me, especially when I'm just passing by and running my eyes quickly through the items. And my last Humana visit concluded with two blck things: a skirt and a dress. And they both were from sheer fabric. I can't explain it in any other way than faith. I wasn't searching for these two pieces, they were searching me. And that's how we met.
By the way, the colorful colors are also a little dusty than clear and bright and in your face. That's the only way I can digest them. And colorful prints are a rare species in my closet. They are extremely loud at times.
So, the second diagram shows different items and how they are divided. It's quite logical that I have blouses the most. We change blouses most often. Although, I prefer pants, because they are most comfortable and practical routinely, I somehow have managed to collect a lot of skirts and dresses. If I didn't have to make this presentation at school I certainly would not know about this. And I kinda even miss them. If only we didn't have Siberia outside here. Actually it's getting a little warmer, so I'm hoping a get-together with them soon. These different jackets and vests have in my wardrobe and in life a very special place. I swear, on a bad day I feel as if I'm naked without a good pair of shoulder pads. A jacket gives this kind of a secure feeling, adding a gram of confidence that would be otherwise missing. If I know that I have something really important awaiting me (e.g a public performance) and I know I'm going to be nervous about it, I will most certainly wear a jacket or a vest to it. Without it I feel too...fragile . I'm manipulating with my own feelings and insecurities with a jacket.
The third diagram shows how old most of my clothes are. By "new" I mean items I bought form a shopping center, without taking into consideration how long ago I bought it. And "old" refers to items that are bought from a second-hand store, a flea market or items I fished from my mother or grandmother that are older than me. The secret to a successful "fishing trip" is to be consistent, make as much as you can positive-til-they-become-annoying comments about the item and to not give up! Although, I have less older clothes than new ones the older ones are my most exciting (for me exciting! Don't remember why? Read once more carefully from the beginning)  and most treasured items of which I luckily am the owner. A piece of clothing that already had a life before you found it is thrilling. I once bought a green jacket from a well know Estonian singer Reet Linna and she told me that this jacket had been to Canada. What? I don't travel as much as I would like to and I have never made it out of Europe, but my jacket has been in Canada. Wow! And I often dream about the story of a fedora I came across by chance and thanks to a very good friend of mine. That hat is from the Soviet Times and I bet it has seen much more than I have in my life.
Contrasts    Romantic    Military    Minimal 
          Equestrian sport       Balance   Characters                   
The previous were a few keywords that I consciously or unconsciously keep in mind. My main philosophy when dressing is that I don't dress according to who I am or what I feel, but according to who I would like to be and how I would like to feel. This can be expressed best as contrasts- one half is who I really am (but I can't/don't suppress it) and the other who I actually would like to be. For example, feminine and masculine that I play with the most. Surprise right? Feminine for me representing delicateness and masculine strength.
Fashion is great, because it allows to live several different lives in one lifetime. If you have the chance to play a new character with a new story, why not take it. I find pirates, musketeers, Louis XIII, Pierrot, pianists, detectives truly inspiring.

But let the truth come out. I don't usually dress always like that. Especially if I have to make my clothes decisions in the morning for school, especially if it's cold as you know what. The most usual picks are among cotton items that are comfy and soft to the skin (and kind of gives the impression of still laying in bed and who hasn't still  mastered the art of sleeping with their eyes open during high-school?).

When talking about personal style, I can't define mine jet. I believe that before one can define their style one has to know thyself. It's an art. And I'm too young and restless to dedicate myself to some "word". But I'm old enough to know which direction I'm moving towards and you know what? By George, I think I've got it!
For now I've made up my own quite generic "words" that I can use describing my personal style without surrounding myself with boundaries about what I consider "this is soooo me" and "this is soo not me". Although, I have to admit, there are already several things that I can refer to using these expressions.
Logical                     Concrete
Logical in the meaning that using overall common knowledge and your own personal when deciding for a garment. E.g dark brown doesn't like grey (some men still don't get it) and underwear is the very first layer of clothing and then comes light wear and then overalls (simple and reasonable!). Concrete in the meaning that a blouse is a blouse, it has to cover certain parts to be called a piece of clothing; pants are pants, no, tights are not pants; a skirt is a skirt not a belt. Every item has to serve it's function or else why even make the effort of putting it on. And I think these two keywords are so universal that a lot of people can agree with me on these ones.

So this was a part of me. In very short small words and a really long post.
And this was par one of a series of post I'm planning to do in the future (the near the better).
I'd love to hear about your closet and why do you think you wear what you wear.


Friday, January 27, 2012

Sh*t Fashion Girls Say

I would draw parallel lines between this blog and a, let's say... a goldfish. 
If you don't feed it regularly, then it would most certainly die, and pretty fast for that matter. Sorry for putting that image into your head. 
And for almost a year writing this blog I've had more than one goldfish. And now I'm trying again. If Steven Spielberg would make a movie series about all the fish I've had then the adventures of the present gouldy would be called "Goldfish: The Revenge of The Grandchild". Are you still following me with the weird metaphor? 
When I first started blogging I wasn't in a good place, mentally. So the idea of this blog was to pull me out of there by sharing things I love/mean something to me and share the rock n roll emotions with everyone else, who by intention or accidentally found their way here. A shared good thing doubles the feelgood moment. And also to prove to myself that I can commit to something and I can be persistent, to really be there for the long run. Well I certainly showed myself, huh? Proof: dead goldfish. 
I'm an Aries. That means I'm stubborn. I'm not giving up. Proof: you're reading it. 
This small introduction is really useless and uninformative. Figured that only now. But as I've already written this and spent time on this I'm not going to delete it. 
"Get to the point already, would you?!" 
You've got a point there, my friend. 
Actually I wanted to share a video I stumbled across. It's about fashion extremes. "Fashion is my passion" and "fashion is a lifestyle" one can say that is not wrong, but seriously, some take it too far. Although, I can relate to a couple (I must stress: a couple) of the examples he makes fun of, there are people out there that act like that...all the time.
So have a laugh, maybe even at yourself.



Did you recognize yourself?

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

50s Lady in Waiting

So mesmerizing, moreover just breathtaking.
I didn't really want to go there, but I said so.

What? 50s Lady in Waiting
Who? Suzie Bird
Where? Elle US (January)
By? Thomas Whiteside (photography) and Christopher Niquet (styling)






Source: fashiongonerouge.com

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Philip Treacy: "I like hats that make the heart beat faster''

I have a new obsession.
Well, the term "new" is quite indefinite.
It all started one fashion history lecture, when our lecturer couldn't describe a hat in words (or in a language) we would understand and so she suggested the curious ones to check out the White collar series that is running now in Estonia. Did I do that? You bet I did! 
Otherwise this whole introduction would be unnecessary, right? Good logical thinking, my friend.
I don't now exactly how it happened, but the series became an obsession (take into consideration, not the obsession this post is talking about). I know this, first it was the hat, then it was the main character's style (it's quite interesting how the stylist puts together some of the outfits with pieces that are not considered to be in a good marriage, but it all works. Furthermore, I have never seen so may variety of pink shirts on men. Maybe it's me. Maybe I've got it wrong. Maybe men aren't scared of pink. Maybe they don't associate pink with the pink triangle Hitler forced homosexual men to wear. Maybe the fear of men wearing pink is made up by women. Maybe they really don't have anything against pink. Maybe it is the fact that we have convinced men that "no, you actually do have a phobia, it's clear as water". How did I get to this conclusion? Is it really relevant to this post? No), finally it was the story to blame. It always is. Thank you for listening.
"Where was I? Oh I was here" B.Streisand
So, boomeranging back to the whole point of this post. One of the main characters is often featured wearing a hat. Then we began talking about hats is our fashion history lectures. Then I did some hard research on Philip Treacy. And then I began seeing hats everywhere. And today I encountered an almost perfect hat, but almost perfect is not enough for me, for now. 
Hats were stuck in my subconscious mind for a long time and I had to rescue them by bringing them into my conscious mind. Somewhere in that mission we became close friends. Well, sadly for now imaginative friends. I still have to find the perfect one...
What kind of a "hat" were you imagining during this long introduction?  The object of my obsession is a felt hat. Now there are a lot of different types of hats made out of felt and that's quite obvious as wool felt is one of the earliest known form of textile fabric. 

Felt is believed to have been discovered by the nomadic tribes of Asia, who made tents and garments by felting sheep's wool. One of its early uses in headwear was in the Greece. A "petasus" was a narrow-brimmed skull-cap which was the "it" item of that time if I could say so. It became the symbol of Hermes- the messenger god. 

Among the Romans the cap of felt-pileus- was the emblem of liberty. When a slave obtained his freedom he had his head shaved and wore instead of his hair an undyed pileus.
By 1600 fur felt was pretty well established as the proper material for a man's hat. The hat-making qualities of beaver from the New World were specially noted. 
Later the tall beaver came into fashion and crowns reached a height of 18 cm or more. The worlds tallest hat is over 45 cm. Can you believe that? Maybe (again with the maybe) the wearer was short and suffering from Napoleon complex. 
The demand for beaver skin in Europe ultimately drove the animal to near-extinction. The popularity of the beaver hat declined in the early/mid-19th century as silk hats became vogue.
The derby, bowler, coke hat and also know as billycock or bombin or as I know it the melon hat was invented by William Bowler, a London hatter, and originally came as a piece of riding headwear, more practical for active sports than the high beaver hats that dominated for street wear. The bowler was called a derby by a hatter in this country who sponsored it after noting its general use at the English Derby race. 
But it is also believed that it was an English soldier and politician Edward Coke (pronounced “cook”, not like the you-know-what), who was the first customer (and designer of the hat). When Coke arrived in London 1849 to collect his hat he reportedly placed it on the floor and stamped hard on it twice to test its strength. 
You may be familiar with this hat through the infamous Charlie Chaplin. 

The term fedora was in use as early as 1891. The hat is typically creased lengthwise down the crown and "pinched" in the front on both sides,  though the creasing does not define the hat and the positioning of pinches can vary if they are found at all. Fedoras were originally sold "open crown", meaning they were uncreased, with the owner creating the desired creases. A customer could always opt to have the shop add shape to the hat if desired.
Fedoras can be found in nearly any color, but black, grey, tan ("fawn"), and dark brown are the most popular.

The hat is sometimes associated with the Great Depression–era gangsters and detectives. Popular stars in the 1950s such as Gene Kelly wore fedoras often in their movies. In Hollywood movies of the 1940s, characters often wore fedoras, particularly when portraying private detectives, gangsters, or other "tough guy" roles. A trench coat was frequently part of the costume. 


And of course I think you are familiar with such fedora-wearing heroes as Frank Sinatra and Indiana Jones. When these men come into mind, their hats come with them. This is a perfect example on how a hat can defy ones image. 








A fedora in reality describes most any men's hat that does not already have another name. Quite a few fedoras have famous names of their own including the famous Trilby, Homburg and Porkpie.
The trilby is viewed as the rich man's favored hat; it is commonly called the "brown trilby" in England and is much seen at the horse races. It is described as a "crumpled" fedora. The London hat company Lock and Co. describes the trilby as having a "shorter (narrower) brim which is angled down (snapped down) at the front and slightly turned up at the back" versus the fedora's "wider brim which is more level (flatter)."  The trilby also has a slightly shorter crown than a typical fedora design. 
The hat's name derives from the stage adaptation of George du Maurier's 1894 novel "Trilbi"; a hat of this style was worn in the first London production of the play. Traditionally it is made from rabbit hair felt, but is usually made from other materials, such as tweedstrawwool and wool/nylon blends. 
The hat reached its peak of popularity in the 1960s, cause the lower head clearance in American automobiles made it impractical to wear a hat with a tall crown while driving. It faded from popularity in the 1970s when any type of men's headwear became out of date, and men's fashion instead began focusing on highly maintained hairstyles. The hat saw a resurgence in popularity in the early 1980s. 
The godfather of all charm Mr. Bond, James Bond, wore a trilby in the first Bond movie in "Dr. No".

Talking about the godfather, Al Pacino was wearing a-little-more-curvy-fedora the Homburg hat in the film "The Godfather" in the 1970s. This resulted in the hat being dubbed "The Godfather". It was popularized by "The Peacemaker" Edward VII in the early 1900s after he visited Germany, and brought back a hat as a keepsake. King Edward VII was very flattered when his hat style was copied in Britain and America and even at times he insisted on being copiedHomburg became popular in the 1930s and the person behind it- Mr. Churchill himself.


In the search for the perfect hat.









Hat sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5- Topshop/ 6, 7, 8- Asos

Fingers crossed!


Wednesday, December 7, 2011

100 years of fashion in 100 seconds



Perfect!
I have a test on Friday about the last 100 years of fashion. Now all I have to do is press stop and press Print Screen. Thank you Westfield Stratford City Shopping Centre London. What a name... 

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

This months keyword

You know I love me some Victor Victoria when it comes to dressing.
By the way, Victor Victoria, if you still haven't seen it please do. Amazing performances by Julie Andrews and  Robert Preston.
But lately I've been inspired more by Victoria than Victor- it's all about Femininity and praising the woman's body. And what better time to dress up than December for all kinds of celebrations?
Whether you're into romantic, (retro) glam, Pin-up or seductive femme fatale, let it show.
"Like put a dress on or something..." said Paris to the men's suit wearing Marlene Dietrich, "...until then you're banner from the city."
It went something like that. Can't really quote- wasn't really there when they said it. You get the point.
Here's some inspiration
Yeah, some, sorry for the picture overload


From the runways for this fall:























From the women:












From the editorials: 














Pictures from the beginning: 1, 2, 3 Givenchy Fall 2011/ 4, 5 John Galliano Fall 2011/ 6, 7, 8 Valentino Fall 2011/9 Donna Karan Fall 2011/ 10, 11, 12 Gucci  Fall 2011/13, 14, 15 Elie Saab Fall 2011/ 16, 17 Marc Jacobs Fall 2011/ (Edited: Man, I totally forgot Lanvin Fall 2011 is supposed to be here)18, 19 Christian Dior Fall 2011/ 20 Marilyn Monroe (or maybe Andy Warhol, no I'm just messing with you)/ 21 Ava Gardner/ 22 Eva Gabor/ 23 heroines of Mad men series/ 24 Audrey Hepburn/ 25 Catherine Deneuve/ 26 woman from the 20s/ 27 Grace Kelly/ 28 classy woman just chillin' wearing her oh so chic gloves/ 29  Jackie O/ 30 Za Za Gabor/ 31 Dress to Kill magazine Winter 2011/ 32 D&G Fall 2011 campaign / 33, 34 Kate Winslet for Harper's Bazaar UK Nov 2011/ 35 Kendra Spears for Exit magazine/ 36 Lily Cole by Damon Baker/ 37, 38, 39, 40 Naomi Preizler for L'Officiel Paris/ 41 "Young Girl with Glover" by Tamara de Lempica
Pictures sources: fashiongonerouge.com/ style.com/ unknown sources